Buttons & status
| button | presses | chatter | fastest |
|---|
Click, double click, hold and scroll inside this box. Move the mouse in fast circles to measure polling rate.
Single-click each button at a normal pace — a healthy switch never logs a chatter event.
Event log
| t | event | button | detail |
|---|---|---|---|
| No events yet. | |||
DPI check
Lay a ruler on the desk, press Start, slide the mouse exactly this far in a straight line, then click to stop. Esc cancels.
Checks
Mouse double clicking or misbehaving? Try these fixes
If one click opens two things, a drag lets go halfway, or the wheel scrolls the wrong way, work through these in order:
- Confirm it's the switch. Single-click the suspect button twenty or thirty times inside the test area. Chatter events that keep appearing on the same button point at the switch; a clean run means the problem is a setting or the software you were using.
- Check the double-click speed setting. If ordinary clicks are being read as double clicks in File Explorer or Finder but this page shows no chatter, the operating system's double-click speed is set too slow. Set it faster in the mouse settings.
- Clean around the button. Unplug the mouse and blow compressed air into the gap around the button and the scroll wheel. Dust and grime cause chatter and wheel skips on mice that aren't worn out yet.
- Raise the debounce time. Many gaming mice expose a debounce or click response time in their software. Setting it a few milliseconds higher can hide a mildly worn switch, at the cost of a very slightly slower click.
- Rule out the connection, then replace the switch. Try another USB port, swap a wireless mouse to wired or fresh batteries, and test again. If chatter still shows on one button, the switch is worn: claim the warranty, replace the switch, or replace the mouse.
How to read your results
| Reading | What it means |
|---|---|
| Chatter events: 0 | The switches are debouncing cleanly. Keep it that way over a few dozen clicks per button before calling it healthy. |
| Chatter on one button, gaps under 20 ms | Classic contact bounce from a worn or dirty switch. It usually gets worse, not better. |
| “Drop-out while held” | The button let go for a few milliseconds mid-hold. This is what breaks drag-and-drop and makes a held trigger stutter in games. |
| Chatter gaps of 60–100 ms | Probably your own fast clicking. Lower the threshold and test again. |
| Wheel reversals while scrolling one way | A dirty or worn scroll encoder misreading notches. |
Polling rate is how often the mouse reports its position to the computer. Common settings, and what the page should show for each:
| Setting | Report interval | Typical mouse |
|---|---|---|
| 125 Hz | 8 ms | Office and basic USB mice |
| 500 Hz | 2 ms | Older gaming mice, power-saving modes |
| 1000 Hz | 1 ms | The usual gaming default, wired or 2.4 GHz wireless |
| 2000–8000 Hz | 0.5–0.125 ms | High-end gaming mice. Browsers often under-read these. |
Bluetooth mice usually land around 90–133 Hz whatever the box says, since that's what the Bluetooth connection allows. If the reading is far under what you set, try another USB port and keep the wireless receiver close to the mouse. Keyboard switches fail the same way; the keyboard chatter test covers those.
Frequently asked questions
How do I test my mouse for double clicking?
Click the suspect button inside the test area at a normal, single-click pace — twenty or thirty times is enough. Watch Chatter events: every time one physical click registers as two presses closer together than the threshold, it's counted and logged with the gap in milliseconds. A healthy switch stays at zero; a worn one usually shows several within a minute.
What is mouse chatter or debounce?
A mouse button is a small metal contact that bounces for a few milliseconds as it closes or opens. The mouse's firmware ignores signals inside a short debounce window so one click reads as one. As the switch wears, the bounce gets longer than that window and a single click comes through as a double click — or a held button briefly lets go mid-drag. That's chatter, and it's the most common way mouse buttons fail.
What chatter threshold should I use?
80 ms, the default, suits most people: a fast deliberate double click is rarely quicker than about 100 ms press to press, while switch bounce usually lands under 30 ms. If you deliberately click very fast — butterfly or jitter clicking — drop it to 50 or 30 ms so your own clicks aren't flagged. Any re-press within 30 ms of a release is counted whatever the setting, because no finger lifts and presses again that quickly.
How do I check my mouse polling rate?
Move the mouse in quick, steady circles over the test area. Polling rate shows how many position reports per second the browser is receiving, and Peak polling keeps the highest sustained value. A 1000 Hz gaming mouse should read close to 1000; an office mouse usually reads 125. Browsers can cap what they deliver — Safari in particular ties it to the screen refresh rate — so a low reading in one browser isn't proof the mouse is slow.
How does the DPI check work?
Put a ruler on the desk, press Start, and move the mouse exactly the distance you picked, then click to stop. The page counts the movement the mouse reported and divides by the distance. In Chrome and Edge it asks for raw, unaccelerated movement, so the result is close to the sensor's real DPI; other browsers include your operating system's pointer speed and acceleration, and the result says so. Treat it as a check that a DPI setting is roughly right, not a lab measurement.
Why don't my side buttons (back and forward) register?
Usually because the mouse's own software has remapped them to a keystroke or macro, so the browser receives that instead of a button press — check the vendor app and set them back to Back and Forward. Some browsers also act on the side buttons before the page sees them. If the page navigates away when you press one, come back and click inside the test area first; it blocks navigation while the pointer is over it.
Why does my scroll wheel jump the wrong way?
The wheel's rotary encoder is a contact switch too, and dust or wear makes it misread a notch. This page flags a reversal whenever one wheel event goes against the direction of the ones just before it. A few reversals while scrolling steadily in one direction point to a dirty or failing encoder; blowing compressed air into the wheel gap sometimes clears it.
Can a double-clicking mouse be fixed?
Sometimes. If the vendor software has a debounce or click response setting, raising it by a few milliseconds can hide a mildly worn switch. Compressed air around the button helps when dirt is the cause. Once the contact itself is worn, replacing the switch — a small soldering job on most mice — or the mouse is the only permanent fix, and many mice are still under warranty when it starts.
Is anything uploaded or installed?
No. The test is a single web page that listens to the mouse events your browser already sends to every page. Nothing is installed, nothing is uploaded, and nothing is kept after you close the tab apart from your threshold and theme choice, which are saved in your own browser.